I arrived in this bustling university city located in the heart of Fraconian wine country via train from Frankfurt’s airport after dark. Even with only streetlights to reveal the path to my hotel, Würzburg’s harmonious colliding of old and new was enchanting. On a guided tour the next day, I was surprised to learn that almost 89 percent of the city was destroyed during World War II. You wouldn’t know it today. Restored to its former glory, spires of churches and universities dot the horizon and, across the Main River, high on a hill and surrounded by vineyards, sits the impressive Fortress Marienberg.

This town marked the start of my journey down Germany’s Romantic Road, which will be chronicled in several upcoming posts.

Do: Tour the Prince-Bishops Residence Palace and take in the opulent painted ceilings and gilded rooms. Sip local wine at Restaurant Alte Mainmühle with the Old Bridge, the Main River and Fortress Marienberg as the backdrop. Quietly experience the soaring majesty of Mary’s Chapel. Take a short 45-minute drive to Weikersheim Palace and stroll through its Renaissance-era gardens.

Stay: The Hotel Wuerzburger Hof is a comfortable option that is within walking distance of the train station and rental car area.

Dine: For traditional Franconian fare, try the Juliusspital Weinstuben. During warmer months, enjoy old-world romantic ambiance and delicious Würzburg produced wine at the courtyard of Weinhaus zum Stachel (or Stachel Inn).